Monday, 16 July 2012

3.<.2.1Fabric costing

      They calculate the fabric cost per a garment. To calculate the fabric cost first of all they have to calculate the garment fabric YY (yielder per yard). This is the fabric consumption of a garment and measured by yardage.

                    The following equation shows how is the fabric costing is done.

                                         Fabric cost=Fabric YY×Unit price
                   (the unit price is the price of fabric yard.)


How to calculate the fabric YY

                                     The fabric consumption of a garment is given as an average value for all garment sizes. This fabric YY is calculated by the CAD room where they draw a special marker to find the fabric YY for further processes. Finding the fabric YY of a garment in particular style is very important at the costing stage.

 Before calculating the garment fabric YY, they have to create a marker with good efficiency.    

                                                     To draw a marker, the marker planner needs all patterns of every garment from each size and also the cutter must. The cutter must show how many types of fabric should be used to produce this garment and the marker planer has to create the marker for the number of fabric types in the cutter must document. All the details about the received patterns are included here and they are sorted out by the patterns reference numbers which are changed at each developing stages. When the marker planner inserts the patterns to the Gerber system, he selects the patterns to the related reference number and
checks with the cutter must, whether he has inserted all the patterns with correct reference number.
(For cutter must see the page 24)

                                     After receiving the patterns and the cutter-must from the pattern maker, the marker planner should consider at what stage he is going to calculate the fabric YY either for ordering or costing. Then he has to create the cut order plan for costing or ordering

                                     The cut order plan and the marker are varied according to its stage, costing and ordering. The marker planner has to follow different methods in those two stages. This will directly affect to fabric YY and then it will result to the factory earning.
                                     Now let’s look what are the differences of the fabric YY calculation of costing and ordering.


Fabric YY for costing


 Firstly the marker planer has to create the cut order plan for the whole order.
                        Actually this costing YY is only to present for the buyer and the factory says this is the price which they can sell their garment for. Then they don’t need an actual quantity and they are just giving a price for a garment by considering fabric YY and other overheads per a garment.

            In this case the marker planer only takes the total ratio of the garment order at the costing stage. (As the most efficient marker ratio is 1:2:2:1, the factory always tries to make the buyer agreed to this ratio. See page 59). Then he multiplies this ratio by 100 as the numbers are not complicate when they divide. Then he creates a cut order plan for this final quantity and then creates a marker by including all sizes to the same marker.

 Then he calculates a garment’s fabric YY by using a pre-prepared excel work sheet.

 The following formula shows what is the calculation for finding the fabric YY at the costing stage.



The marker planer has to include all the garments into one marker. And if there are more markers for YY calculating, he takes the average YY of each marker.

                        The most important thing of this YY calculation is: that the marker planer always tends to keep some buffers of his marker planning process.
When he places the patterns in the marker, he adds some buffers between two patterns and tries to increase the garment YY more than the ordering YY. Keeping these buffers will be beneficial when they order fabric for the bulk production.





YY calculating for fabric ordering        


                                            In this stage the marker planner is given what is the whole quantity of the garment order. Then he has to calculate the garment fabric YY for ordering.
 As the usual process he has to create the cut order plan for this ordering and then creates a marker for this cut order plan.
                                        The below equation shows how the fabric YY for ordering is calculated.


If there are two fabrics used in a garment, the marker planner have two draw markers to the number of fabric types used in the garment. Then he follows the same procedure and calculates YYs for each marker.


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